Kilmainham Gaol

A hallway of Kilmainham Gaol

Located in Dublin City is one of the most important historical places relating to Ireland’s history. This place is known as Kilmainham Gaol. Being a prison, it was the “home” to some of the most important figures in Irish history. At one point in time, it held the leaders of the Easter Rising of 1916 and was also the place of their executions or as some may say, their martyrdom. However, Kilmainham was not always a prison for the high profiled. Built in 1796 to replace a former prison, the structure of the gaol is unique. Instead of having a large room with everyone in it, they had cells to separate the prisoners from being in large-scale groups. This helped decrease riots and helped prevent children from becoming part of crime groups. But, even though the prison helped decrease riots and other various troubles it was not a place one wanted to be. This is because the prison was well known for overcrowding.

There would be about five prisoners per cell and each cell was around 28 meters squared, which is a very small space for five people to live. Alongside this, the cells were extremely cold! Prisoners would be given one candle for light (and warmth) and it would have to last them for two weeks. And, as time progressed the living situations in the gaol did not improve at all. When it came to the Easter Rising of 1916, prisoners were treated horrendously. For example, one of the leaders of the rebellion, Joseph Mary Plunkett, was treated poorly but in a way some could say he at least was given a chance to be with his love before he died. This is because he was allowed to be married while in prison. But, he and his wife were not allowed to talk to each other except when they exchanged their vows. Then, their “honeymoon” was spent in the cell with two armed guards watching their every move for approximately ten minutes. After this, Joseph Plunkett was executed.

The name plate of Joseph Plunkett which hung over his gaol cell.

Another example is James Connolly. Connolly was shot in the ankle during the battle and it developed into gangrene. Even though he was dying, he was still executed. However, the executioners did not even bring him to the main execution spot where the others were executed because they were too afraid that he would die before they got him there. So, they tied him to a chair on the opposite end of the execution spot and shot him dead. From these two stories alone we can see that this time period was one of great pain and loss.

Kilmainham Gaol serves as a dark mark upon the history of achieving freedom in Ireland. The infamous gaol has housed both common criminals and political criminals from five different uprisings, one war of independence and one civil war. It is no wonder why people come to tour such an integral player within the history of Ireland.

The name plate of Countess Markievicz which hung over her gaol cell.

The Gaol has come to represent England’s attempt to suppress the actions of the Irish. From political prisoners involved in the United Irishmen to the IRA, Irishmen and Irishwomen have walked the dark halls of the gaol as a result of taking political action against oppressive powers. Within the walls of Kilmainham, the political figures of the early 20^th century were able to plot and plan their next attempts at warfare. Because of the notoriously harsh and dismal reputation, Kilmainham Gaol became the hell into which the rebels were thrown following the 1916 rising. After the men were executed, mass resistance and rebellion began to spur amongst the Irish. Kilmainham Gaol seemed to represent the cruelty against which the Irish would fight. This resilience came to mark the period of time Kilmainham Gaol is most known for. Walking through the corridors, a sense of dark oppression coupled with resilient hope permeates the air. The Irishmen and Irishwomen would no longer stand for the oppression that had been forced upon them. As we have learned more about the War of Independence, we are altogether confronted with the difficulty of their tasks. If it were not for their spirit and drive, the Republic may not be what it is today. This resilient passion still exists today. Seen in rallies against water charges, as well as political action against a divided Ireland, the perseverance that we have seen in spite of institutions such as Kilmainham Gaol continues to shape and define Irish identity.

The cross in the center of the photo represents the 13 men who were executed in that spot. The other cross, in the background, represents were Connolly was shot. In the middle of the crosses is an Irish flag representing the Irish identity.

In conclusion, this was a bittersweet visit for us as we were able to visit such a huge historical site that was filled with hatred, death, and dispute. It was very interesting to have read about these events and even heard about this site from various people including our Trinity College Professors. But, to be physically present at the place was unlike any words that were spoken to us. Overall, this experience was unlike any other. We learned so much about this event and the men involved. We learned about the courage of the men and how they knew leading this rebellion would mean their lives, but they fought for what was right. We learned about the deep hatred between the British and the Irish. Last but not least, we learned about honor and sticking to what you believe in, no matter what. Thinking about the current events with ISIS and Christians being executed for their faith, this gaol and its history made us think about how much we are willing to stand up for what we believe. Is something worth fighting for if it means death? Thinking about this made us realize that many are killed for their faith and their beliefs. We have all been fortunate to live in a free country where we don’t have to worry about that. But, if there came a time where we had to stand up for our Savior, would we? Would you, even if it meant death? Well, the fourteen executed men stood up for what they believed in.

Arbor Hill

Panoramic view of Arbor Hill

Walking into the tulip-lined memorial and burial site placed a hush over us as we filed in to view the marble walls where the Proclamation of the Irish Republic was inscribed. The fourteen names of those who had been executed at Kilmainham Gaol stared up at us, in both English and Gaelic, as we recalled the series of events that led to the War of Independence in Ireland.

Two of the fourteen men who were executed at Kilmainham Gaol.

On the wall opposite the gravesite is a plaque with the names of other people who were killed in 1916. Even though these men at the time were viewed as rebels and traitors to their country, they are now viewed as heroes and revolutionaries. The longer we were there, a sense of hope laced with devastation swirled around us, creating a space of reverence and humility. These individuals had clearly exemplified their willingness to sacrifice themselves for the greater good’s freedom and wellbeing. At Arbor Hill cemetery, located in the city of Dublin in Co. Dublin, we came to understand modern Ireland in a new way.

Memorials can be found all around Ireland, commemorating and paying respect to events, people and places around the Emerald Isle. By erecting memorials and plaques around the country, the people of Ireland are able to feel a shared community in honoring Ireland’s past, creating a national identity along the way. We learned from Newgrange that the Irish are people thoroughly engrained in history. As the country flourished and developed, the history of the people, land and culture did the same. Now, in modern Ireland, the Irish look back at their history in order to understand who they are and where they are going.

The Proclamation of the Irish Republic

Their past illuminates the motivations and drives behind their modern culture, reminding all who pass by what and who have shaped their current lives. Memorials in general highlight the value the Irish place on their history; the Arbor Hill memorial specifically reminds the current generation of the sacrifice, bravery and honor the Irishmen and women exemplified when fighting for their dream of an independent Ireland. It also serves as a reminder of the goals that have not been completely accomplished. Those who are remembered in Arbor Hill stood for a free Ireland—a totally free Ireland. Arbor Hill stands as an exhortation to modern Ireland to appreciate their history, learn from the past, and continue to press on toward future goals.

In conclusion, this cemetery was very impactful. The history behind what these men stood for and the bravery that they showed truly touched us. The fact that they knew that others might ridicule them and hate them for causing so much destruction was in itself enough. But, in the midst of knowing that, they were still willing to die for what they thought was right, and that alone is an honorable act. Also, back then signing their “declaration of independence” was an act of treason. But, not only did they sign it, they signed it big! They were proud of their beliefs and were not ashamed for what they stood for. For their bravery and loyalty to the cause, they were given such a phenomenal memorial and will forever be remembered.

The beautiful tulips at Arbor Hill

We as Christians have the same task—we need to stand up for our God and stand up proudly, even if it means our lives. There will be days where we are ridiculed and hated, but we should make it known that we will not be persuaded; we will write our names big for our God. When we do this, we will be given a reward so great, it will far surpass any gift; we will have eternal life in paradise with our Savior, Jesus Christ!

Muckross House

View of the landscape, from the inside of a house drawn carriage, that surrounds The Muckross House.

Located in the city of Killarney, in Co. Kerry, lies the beautiful Muckross House. Originally owned by Henry Arthur Herbert and his wife, Mary Balfour Herbert, this house began in the year of 1843. During the 1850’s the house went through improvements to get ready for the visit from Queen Victoria that would later occur in 1861. But, because of these improvements, the family underwent financial difficulties that landed them in a position of having to sell the manor. Arthur Guinness, who wanted to preserve the landscape as much as possible, bought the house in 1899. However, he did not keep it for a long time because in 1911 it was sold to William Bowers Bourn who then presented it to his daughter as a wedding gift (what a nice wedding gift)! Then, in 1932 her parents and son-in-law decided to donate the estate to the Irish Nation allowing it to become Ireland’s first National Park.

This house’s elegance and wealth stand in stark contrast with the other buildings of the day. Muckross gives us a unique look into the Victorian lifestyle lead by the owners and builders of the estate in the 19^th century. As part of the English aristocracy, the Herbert family enjoyed a wealthy lifestyle in the midst of Irish poverty. While most of the country was fending off the potato blight during the 1840’s, the Herbert family continued to live and eat despite the devastation the famine brought. This contrast gives us insight into the character of Ireland during the mid 19^th century and beyond.

The Muckross House

When England was trying to convert Irish identity to a more Protestant, united identity, the crown offered plantations to those British men and women who were willing to go live in Ireland. With this offer, for generations British families laid roots into the Irish soil, bringing with them their wealth and lifestyles. Because of this, we see estates such as these in the midst of poverty, creating a divide between the Irish and British. This divide only deepened when the famine hit. As Ireland became more impoverished and less populated, the estates such as the Muckross House served as reminders to those who surrounded exactly who held the power and wealth. To heighten tensions, Queen Victoria’s visit in 1861 was roughly only ten years following the famine. Many felt that the famine could have been reduced in severity if Britain had given more aid. With the Queen’s visit to the English estate, the line was drawn more clearly between the British and the Irish. As you have already read in our previous blogs, tensions peaked in the early 20^th century, igniting a full-fledged war. It was these smaller components that continued to drive a wedge between the two sides, adding up over time to create history.

From left to right: Antonio, Adrienne, Jessica, Giovanna

In conclusion, the Muckross House was an extremely interesting site to see. The more we thought about it, we realized that at times we act like the owners of the Muckross House. This is seen in how we act towards the extra items we have in life. There are a plethora of people in our own country, and in countries around the world, that struggle to find food, let alone a place to lay their head. However, we sometimes grumble because we are not satisfied with what we have. For example, have you ever heard someone complain about not having enough money for the newest piece of technology, although they already have technological items that work perfectly fine? This may be a hard reality to face, but it is always important to remember that there are people who never owned a single piece of these items. Yet, they have lived their lives without them and have been content.

We live in a constant state of want and greed, when others live in a constant state of hunger and worry for simply surviving the day. Touring the Muckross House helped us to realize that we can be like the owners at times and that we need to recognize that there are others who are struggling to obtain even the simple things in life. With that said, we must remember that we will never have it as bad as someone else in the world. If we ever think we do, we need to take a look at our lives and realize just how blessed we are.

P.S. The Muckross House has 65 rooms inside of it!

Derry

Derry, also known as Londonderry, is one of Ireland’s oldest cities. The earliest historical reference is to the 6th century when St. Columba, the famous green martyr that traveled the world and preached the gospel, founded a monastery there. Jumping forward into history, we see the Irish War of Independence where the area was rocked by violence partly because of the guerilla war between the IRA and British forces. Then, by the 1920’s there was severe sectarian rioting in the city and this led to the lose of many lives, and after a week of violence, there was a truce by the politicians on both the Unionist and Republican sides. Eventually though, (London)Derry would become the center for the Catholic Civil Rights movement because Catholics were extremely discriminated against by the Unionist government in Northern Ireland. However, one of the main events that took place in (London)Derry was The Battle of the Bogside, which is when Catholic rioters fought the police. This is considered the starting point of The Troubles. The Troubles were an awful time, and on Sunday, January 30, 1972, 13 civilians were shot dead by British paratroopers during a civil rights march and this was later known as Bloody Sunday. This is something that will always be remembered and never forgotten in Irish history.

A mural on the side of a house in Derry.

Based off the above information, it is nearly impossible to talk about Irish identity without discussing the peace process. Tensions between the Unionists and the Nationalists, the Free State and the Republicans and the Roman Catholics and Protestants. For decades, people have been trying to achieve peace between mounting tensions in warzones to create a civil environment. While many try to paint the picture in simply black and white terms, it is not that easy. There are Irishmen and women on both sides of the conflicts; we will attempt to view both sides of the coin in this blog post and the following (so stay tuned!) in hopes of illuminating the ways in which this peace process has come to shape Irish identity.

A mural on the side of a house in Derry.

As you’ve already read, the historical significance of this city could alone fill a library. However, the events and sentiments throughout the city are not consigned to the past. The murals and monuments around the city inform the modern generation and all that come to visit just how sad this time was. When someone asks about Irish identity, the only appropriate answer is “it’s complicated.” We saw the full complexity of conflict and resolution within the walls of (London)Derry. From one perspective, to be Irish meant to be Nationalistic. It meant that you believed in an independent, non-oppressed Ireland and most were willing to fight for it. These are the identities and ideologies that are painted on the walls of houses along the streets.

They depict The Troubles from a Republican perspective, displaying the hardships and devastations inflicted due to British troops upholding allegiance to the crown. Walking through the city of (London)Derry, reading the stories of people who have fought for independence and freedom, it is clear to see how these events have shaped Irish identity. Many people still live with the first-hand account etched into their memories of neighbors, friends and family members getting shot down by police. To be Irish was to be against the British. The old Gaelic values of loyalty and bravery were reemphasized as Ireland fought to bring unity and peace to its nation.

The Peace Bridge

Ultimately, our trip to (London)Derry was a very informative one with the reality that we did not know much about The Troubles before hand, so spending time in (London)Derry helped to enlighten us all. However, the one thing that stuck out to us was the murals placed throughout the city. The combination of murals, monuments and the Peace Bridge all provided a time of learning and understanding about the city and its people. Although it is peaceful now, it does not mean it is reconciled, and that is a hard pill to swallow. Why can’t these people just reconcile and have the hatred be over? That is what we asked ourselves, but we later understood why. This conflict is not something that just occurred, it has been ongoing. True reconciliation, especially of a conflict so long and drawn out, will take time. Only small steps and time will truly heal. This is what we came to understand.

Walking on the Peace Bridge…it was very windy that day!
From left to right: Giovanna, Jessica, Antonio, Adrienne

To finish our day in (London)Derry, we visited the Peace Bridge. It was such an amazing experience to be standing on this beautiful bridge in the midst of what used to be The Troubles. We felt spurred to pray as a group for the continual restoration of this place, as it is still hurting. After doing so, a woman approached us and thanked us. It was a reminder that prayer is still appreciated in this place and that God is truly needed to heal the hearts of the people. It was a moment that we will never forget. (London)Derry was an incredible place and we are very fortunate that we were able to visit it.

Belfast

A mural on the side of a row of houses in Belfast.

During our travels to Northern Ireland we spent time in the city of Belfast. Belfast is home to many large conflicts, not just in Irish history but world history as well. This city endured the Troubles, the Irish Civil War, and was even bombed during World War II in a blitz from Nazi Germany. With that said, this city is truly rich in history!

In regards to the Civil War, after Michael Collins returned from England with the Treaty splitting the North from the South this is when the war broke out. Many people from the North, especially Belfast, fought in this war. The outcome of this tragic event was that more than 500 lives were lost. Then, during the Nazi Blitz, over 1,000 people were killed from the bombings. This was the largest sectarian strife in the city up until The Troubles.

During the time period between 1969-1998 there was a massive amount of conflict creating the era known as The Troubles. This was when the Republicans and Loyalists got into a military conflict and fought with guerrilla warfare and violence. The provisional IRA had detonated 22 bombs in Belfast city in 1972 and killed 11 people. This day was known as “Bloody Friday”. Because of that, the Loyalist groups wanted to retaliate. Over 1,600 people were killed in the city between 1969 and 2001. Eventually though, in 1998, the two parties had reached political agreement and the fighting began to settle down and later on it died out.

For many Irish in the North, their lives have always been integrated into the United Kingdom. They desire to remain connected to the crown and therefore, remaining a part of the United Kingdom becomes a point of contention with the Republicans. Organizations such as the Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF) began fighting back to protect their understanding of Irish citizenship; they are Irish and yet they are loyal to the crown. The murals around Belfast depict a very different understanding of Irish identity. They begin to paint a picture of loyalty and bravery—Irish values aimed at standing up for the crown.

Belfast cannot be simply categorized as unionist, however. It is important to recognize the peace process—Belfast as a microcosm of the larger Emerald Isle. Protestants and Catholics are living side by side with mutual hatred and disdain, fighting for different sides to win the war all while passing each other on the street. Most of the population in Ireland is old enough to remember the effects of The Troubles. Ireland, specifically hotbeds like Belfast, was stained with the blood of young deaths and innocent bystanders. To be Irish in Belfast meant that you were fighting for your life, hoping that you could cross the street in safety. It meant that you prayed for no telegrams coming to your door to notify you that your son had been killed. Being Irish, whether Protestant or Catholic, meant that you lived in fear and chaos. It is for those reasons that the peace walls are praised in Belfast. Giant cement walls may not be picturesque but it ensures division and cease firing.

The Peace Wall of Belfast

The Peace Wall of Belfast

We still live in the midst of this peace process. Depending on whom you talk to, Ulster men or Republicans, they will warn of prejudice and tell of their horror stories. Both sides experienced hardship and many from both sides would say they are Irish. We see this history further clarify the attitudes and sentiments today. The Irish people are people of their land and history. In jest, people claim the Irish never forget. Today, that may still be true. The Irish have not forgotten The Troubles and the disillusionment and hatred bred from that time period still linger today as they ask the question, “how do we move on?”

Overall, Belfast was simply an amazing trip filled with incredible stories and sites to see. Both the stories relating to historical events as well as the sites themselves were impactful in helping us understand both sides of The Troubles. However, there was one story in particular that helped us get the inside perspective and this was from a man whom we met in Belfast.

This man was a former member of the Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF) and was imprisoned for numerous murders he participated in, conspiracy of murders, and bank robberies. For 16 years he sat in prison expecting to be there for life, but due to the Good Friday agreement, he was released. Sitting before us at dinner was a man clearly affected, but changed. When asked what changed him, he answered his faith. God has used this man in such incredible ways and has given him an inspirational testimony! One story he told us was truly wonderful. The story goes that while he was in prison he was able to meet the family of the man he killed. Long story short, the daughter of the murdered man hugged him. Talk about forgiveness! This man was forever changed from that moment and after we heard that story, so were we.

The power of forgiveness is an amazing thing but, forgiving is difficult; especially to the degree that the girl forgave. It is forgiveness that can only be achieved with the help of God. God was with that girl during that specific moment because he knew how the man would be transformed by that act of forgiveness and kindness. It is incredible to see God at work in the lives of those who many would consider lost souls. It is amazing to know that God does not give up on anyone. No matter how far we fall, we are never too far from God! The city of Belfast and the man’s story helped us confirm this beautiful truth!

JFK Homestead

Ireland, surprisingly, has more history than just Irish history in that it holds pieces of American history. We saw this when we went to the JFK Homestead which is where we can trace President JFK’s ancestry back to. His family arrived in America during the famine because life in Ireland was terrible at the time and people wanted to have an opportunity to live a better life or simply a chance to continue living life. With that said, his great grandfather came to America on the Dunbrody Famine Ship. Even though his great grandfather had left for a better life, most of his family had stayed in Ireland at the homestead located in Co. Wexford. Fast forward numerous years to a young politician who was tracing his family history and finding out where they had come from. This landed JFK in Ireland during June of 1963. When he visited he was a very powerful man…he was the President of the United States of America. Even though this wasn’t much news to America, it was huge news to the Irish people. He was the ultimate Irish success story! It had only taken three generations from the time of the famine and being an immigrant to become the President of the United States. Ultimately, he gave the Irish people hope for their future amidst any struggle that they may have gone through or that might have been present in their lives at that time. This encouragement from JFK was very significant to the people of Ireland and much of this can be seen throughout the JFK Homestead.

The original couch JFK sat on when he visited his family.

The Kennedy Homestead doubles as a museum, telling the story of the Kennedy family and John Fitzgerald Kennedy’s visit specifically. Within three generations, the Kennedy name goes from rural Irish farmer struggling to survive during the famine to the President of the United States of America. This articulates the hope that the emigrants had in their journeys abroad in the coffin boxes. While the particular trajectory of JFK’s life was not the standard story of the Irish emigrants, many left with sorrow of leaving their country but were hopeful in finding a life with opportunities elsewhere. Emigration spread the seeds of Irish culture throughout the world, sending a message to neighbors regarding the character of the Irish. It was then that the rest of the world began to learn about the brave personalities of the hardworking Irishmen.
Their charisma and perseverance would eventually land them a place in the White House. On the other hand, this was not the only White House we learned about while in the museum. In the quaint, white country cottage that made up the Kennedy Homestead, we saw a value placed on the average country family who remained in Ireland despite the horrific conditions of the famine. The dedication and simplicity that permeated their lives impressed upon us a greater understanding of the Irish identity then and now. We are continually blown away by the frankness and good humor we encounter when it comes to the Irish discussing their country’s issues. However, after visiting the famine ship and the Kennedy Homestead, it’s clear to see where it comes from. Every day—good or bad, happy or sad—is taken in stride with good humor, hope and a couple of pints.

Adrienne standing in front of the gate which JFK entered through when he came to visit his family in Ireland.

Visiting JFK’s Homestead was such a privilege. While being there we were able to think more about what our coach driver, Brian King, has mentioned to us a couple of times. He has said that many people have family ties to Ireland…even President Obama has Irish ties. In fact most of us probably have some ties to Ireland at some point in our ancestry. But, rarely do we think about where we come from. However, more and more our identities are placed on current situations rather than the past, which is not all bad. But, when we do that we loose a large part of who we are.

Kennedy realized the importance of searching for ancestors and learning about where you come from and how it shapes who you are—that is why he visited Ireland. This visit made us realize the importance of how we came to be and where we came from. Our ancestors may have struggled, gone through hardship, done their best so that we, today, can live a good life. How often do we take for granted the life that we lead? Have you ever thought how you came to be? How was Kennedy able to become president? Well, he journeyed to the past to figure that one out!

St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral

St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral (http://www.chooseireland.com/miscellaneous/st-marys-pro-cathedral/)

After traipsing through long and narrow roads of Dublin city, we found St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral hidden as a gem in the sandstorm. The regal outside appearance did not disappoint as we entered into the cathedral, astounded by the beauty of it all. We have spent numerous hours surveying the cathedrals pertaining to the Church of Ireland but up until this point, we had spent little time in Roman Catholic churches and cathedrals. St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral is not an average cathedral. This cathedral in particular remains critical to Ireland, as it is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archbishop of Dublin. Built in the early 19^th century, this cathedral has stood against the Catholic opposition, coming to represent the importance of the Catholic faith to Irish identity.

One could never overestimate the importance of the Catholic faith in Ireland. The Roman Catholic Church was, and in many ways, still is embedded into the fabric of society. The Roman Catholic Church shaped society, politics and economics for many of the early centuries. Irish culture and ecclesiological lifestyles were merged together in an inextricably Celtic fashion. To understand whom the Irish are, one must delve into the Roman Catholic Church.

This particular cathedral offers a unique insight into the Irish people that it serves. Built during the Penal Laws, St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral was built as the first Catholic cathedral since the Protestant Reformation. This highlights the tenacity that is engrained in the Irish. Throughout Ireland’s history, Irish Catholicism has been trampled, outlawed, and revised all in the name of imperialism and power. However, time and time again, they persist! For many centuries, being Irish meant being Roman Catholic and being Catholic meant being tenacious. While that may not be necessarily the case today, the people of Ireland recognize the influence the success and the oppression of the Roman Catholic Church has on its daily life and identity. Perseverance marks the foreheads of those who have continually fought for religious equality and civil rights for all Irish men and women. St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral serves as a reminder of the devout and tenacious Irishmen and Irishwomen who have worshipped in the Roman Catholic Cathedrals across the generations. Alongside this reminder, we individually were challenged while being at the cathedral.

From the outside, St. Mary’s did not look much like the typical cathedral in Ireland. We entered into an enormous open room with the most marvelous structure. The lighting was dim and candles surrounded the benches throughout the entire inside. However, what was interesting to see was that a good amount of these benches were filled with men and women praying. Being there around 3:30 PM, on a weekday, and realizing that most of Dublin was still at work, the amount of people present truly was a testament to this place. Ultimately, this cathedral is seen as a safe place and peaceful place for people to come at any time they want to spend time with the Lord.

This whole concept of people taking time out of their daily lives to just sit and dwell in the cathedral and not worry about the clock was inspirational. At least in the U.S, life is always about how fast one can accomplish something; how fast can we get there? How fast can we get this done? How fast can I communicate with someone? Well, you get the point. When are we still and silent, well if our group was being honest, we would say rarely ever. This is why we were so impacted with this particular visit; it presented us with a challenge to slow down and spend time within our busy day to refocus our minds on Christ.

Above all, it is important to always remember to make God the priority in your life and to spend time with Him. This is one major take away we received from visiting St. Mary’s Pro Cathedral and we hope in a way that this will speak to you as much as it has spoken to us.

Personal reflection from a member of the Lucky Four Leaf Clover Blog: “I took my time to walk around the church and see every little detail that I could. In both ways it was humbling being in the house of God and made me prideful to be someone of the faith. I took some time of my own, away from the group, to kneel and pray in front of the statue of Mary. I donated a euro to the church to get a candle to light for my prayers. It was a time that made me feel the presence of God. As I prayed I felt the Holy Spirit all around me and in the church.” –Antonio Leija

The Dunbrody Famine Ship + Famine Statues & Famine House

The Dunbrody Famine Ship

During the Irish Studies Program we experience a plethora of different styled days: classroom days, reading days, weekend days, and traveling days. On one particular traveling day, here in Ireland, we ventured down to CO. Wexford where we stopped at many different sites, and one of these was the Dunbrody Famine Ship. We will be honest in saying that we were not sure what to expect. But upon arrival, we were pleasantly surprised at how realistic the ship was, as it loomed large above us as we pulled up to the dock. Although it was once a real, sailing boat, this replica was recreated to mirror the ship that had set sail during the time of the famine. After reading a little about the history of the ship we all boarded and were ready to set sail on a learning adventure which we are about to take you on. So…all aboard, this ship is ready to sail!

The living conditions the emigrants experienced while aboard the Dunbrody

In order to understand the significance of the famine ship, we must observe the monstrosity that was the Great Hunger. Destroying the population of Ireland, the Great Hunger is known as one of the darkest moments in Ireland’s past. The eerie silence that characterized the deathly-still famine towns and houses came to forever shape the identity of those who managed to live beyond it. Reports of 1.5 million dying and another 1.5 million people emigrating; the four years between 1845 and 1849 were marred by starvation, emaciation and malnourishment. Those who could, afford to jumped in a coffin box (famine ship) and jetted off to America! However, even these were no cruise liners as 20-30% of those who boarded these ships did not make it to their destination. This sort of devastation and disillusionment permeated Irish culture. This is what the Dunbrody Famine Ship became part of, but this is not how its history began.

Constructed in the year 1845, by the leading ship constructors of the time, Graves & Sons, the Dunbrody was considered state of the art in its time. Brand new and ready for the water, the Dunbrody’s first sail would have been out of New Ross. But, its first sail was not carrying what it was intended to carry which was cargo. Instead, it carried a belly full of emigrants hoping to escape The Famine. During this time, the captain of the Dunbrody was Captain Williams. He was known to be a very caring captain for both his crew and his passengers. He had the highest surviving rate out of all of the coffin ships. This is because whenever anyone would become ill he would personally help in taking care of him or her in his own cabin in order to help limit the disease from spreading to the passengers and the crew. But, the Dunbrody isn’t the only site were we saw images of the famine. Another was the famine statues located in the city of Dublin.

Famine Statues

The famine statues depict what the people of the time looked like, and this can be described in a few words: extremely malnourished, stuck in worn and ragged clothing, and literally exhausted looking. Although this is a sad site to see, it is one that helps to remind us of what these people went through and how it affected them as human beings. Finally, to contribute to this we were able to see a famine house. Famine houses were the homes of the people that were left during the famine. These homes were extremely small in that they were not much bigger than your average bedroom in a modern day house. However, despite the compactness, they would fit multiple families into these homes were they all would attempt to survive the harsh times. And, truth be told that one reason for these people staying and not leaving there homes is because of the land that had been in their family for many years that was surrounding the home. With all of that said, it is interesting to see how the famine homes and famine statues around Ireland contribute to the larger picture of what had occurred during that time period. Plus, it helps in understanding the story behind the Dunbrody Famine Ship. Once one understands the story, then one can begin to realize the significance that this ship had during this time period and how it fits into the overall picture of the story of Ireland.

As we learn more about the uniqueness of Irish culture and identity, we have noticed the way in which the Irish cope with pain and suffering. People often do not shy away from speaking about their troubles. Irish men and women often do not hide behind pleasantries and false friendliness; suffering is looked square in the eye and cheered to. With the past that Ireland has, it is no question as to where the Irish get their gumption. They have literally lived through hell and the famine ship embodies their past of turmoil and strife. Irish identity has been shaped by the severity of their conditions and it is in studying these historical sites that we can continue to uncover the depths of the Irish identity.

From left to right: Jessica, Adrienne, Antonio, Giovanna

In conclusion, this site truly affected each of us. After hearing about what the people went through with regards to the lack of food they received, the times they had to set up to come to the deck of the ship to bake their bread (it was baked multiple times till it was hard as a rock…literally), and the terrible conditions they had to deal with below the deck was shocking to hear about. It really hit us was when we all ventured down below to see the living courters the people had. Our initial thought was that one section was for at least two people, but we were informed that one section was for ten people. When looking at it, there was no way ten people could fit, but that was what was expected! The conditions down below were cramped even for fourteen students let alone hundreds of people. Ultimately, it was hard to take in what we were experiencing. In all, these sites caused us to reflect on what life for these individuals must have been like. We often take for granted what God has blessed us with; these sites helped us realize that we are truly blessed and we have so much to be thankful for!

P.S. An interesting fact about the Dunbrody ship is that JFK’s great grandfather was a passenger on it at one point. He emigrated to the United States of America, from Ireland, during the Famine. 

Dún Aonghasa (Dun Aengus)

As we boarded the ferryboat and set off into the fog-covered water we had no idea that what we would see after docking would be views of splendid bliss! After being on the ferry for 45 minutes, we finally made it to the beautiful Aran Island of Inis Mor (Inishmore) in County Galway. We were ready to explore, by bicycle, what the entire island had to offer! But, little did we know that one of the things the island would have on it was a beautiful fort atop the highest point on the island itself…Dún Aonghasa (Dun Aengus).

The path to Dún Aonghasa

Dún Aonghasa is truly something of both beauty and history! When you are finished traveling the path from the information center you arrive to a beautiful site. Your view is a huge old ruined hill fort directly in front of you. But, as you look to your left you see gorgeous, yet terrifying, cliffs! The cliffs are so high from the water that they truly give you a shock of fear and amazement! However, this old fort calms the fear of the high cliffs and gives insight on those who lived here many years ago and why they chose this location to be where they would establish their fort. But, because of the long history of settlements there, the houses were poorly preserved. However, although the houses may be gone there is still plenty of information to be known.

The entrance to the fort

For example, the cattle of the area were much smaller than those on the mainland. This is because of the weather conditions atop the highest point. Also, the land itself was much harsher than that of the mainland so the cattle didn’t have much to eat which kept them from growing. Even though the source of food wasn’t the best, it is remarkable to see that the land was populated with people! First, during the late Bronze Age, the fort was a place for inhabitants (it is said that these people may have only lived on the Aran Islands. But, it is possible that they lived on the nearby mainland). Second, during the Iron Age, people began to leave the hill fort and it started being used for both ceremonial and religious occasions. Later on, the fort had been abandoned which left it as being a great defensive and offensive place for battles. You may be thinking, why is this so? Well, the answer is because of its location!

The location of the fort was perfect! It overlooked most of the terrain, reducing the element of surprise attacks on the fort. This alone helped in preparing for battles because the people would not be behind when it came time to fight. Also, it was in a prime spot because one side of the fort faced the cliff. This eliminated sea attacks. Finally, it is said that its location could be something of a ritual spot because it is placed right between the sea and land. With a fort that was established in a perfect spot on an island, one must be dying to know who established the fort itself. Brace yourselves…we have the answer for you!

From left to right: Adrienne, Giovanna, Jessica, Antonio

Dún Aonghasa’s identity is uncertain (sorry to be the deliverer of unsure news). Despite the uncertainty, folklore, legend and speculation have swirled around who the fort could have been named after. The early dating, circa 1500-1000BC, suggests that it was used as a capital for an unknown stretch of territory. However, only a few individuals could not have completed the majesty of this fort. The size, resources and communal efforts necessitate a high level of social organization that sheds light on the Irish as a whole. Building social relations and community has been in the hearts and minds of the Irish since the beginning of their history. In our Celtic Christianity class, we learned the worldview of the early Celtic community. Among other things, tribal relations were on the top of the list. The fort stands as a reminder both of the community efforts as well as the social relations between communities. Legend tells us that it may have belonged to a dynasty that was displaced from their lands in County Meath. This displacement would further show the conflict and clashing between people groups.

The warring and fighting between people groups is not a foreign concept to both historical and modern Ireland. Through the centuries of growth and modernization, the Irish continue to have both internal and external strife. Whether it was clashing between the Lords of Ireland, or between the British and Irish, Ireland knows conflict, or tribal relations, well. These conflicts have come to shape the modern Irish identity into a unique blend of sorrow and joy. Our brilliant bus drive (and interim father-figure), Brian, put it eloquently: “the Irish history is marked with such devastation and sorrow, you couldn’t help but learn to laugh at it because otherwise–you’d be driven mad.” The jovial and jesting humor that marks the Irish comes out of the history of conflict and fighting. It is in the social relations and the rich history of the fort that we come to understand modern Ireland more. Furthermore, from the very beginning of our visit to Dún Aonghasa our minds had a hard time wrapping around the enormity, age and view of this remarkable site. We were flabbergasted to not only see it, but also learn about it and how it fits into the story of Ireland.

Dún Aonghasa (Dun Aengus)

With that said, the fort like structure was ginormous—bigger than it appeared in pictures. When we first reached the top of the hill we climbed, we could see this stone structure, but we were not exactly sure what it was. We assumed it was more of a wall. Then, it wasn’t till awhile after we reached the top that we ventured inside of the ‘wall’. After entering, what we saw was greater than we had imagined! It was much more than a typical wall; it was a huge curved structure that left us in awe as we walked around the inside of it.

Not only was Dún Aonghasa massive, but it was extremely old as well. It left us questioning how something extremely large and old could still be standing! It was incredible to look at the stones and know that they are the same stones that were placed on top of one another centuries ago…how amazing is that! Finally, although this is not specific to the structure, the view was one of the most amazing sights ever! Right in front of the fort was a long deep drop that was absolutely striking! The water was stained with such a rich blue and was toped with white foam from the crashing waves. God wanted us to truly take in His creation, whether directly from His hand, or through His creation of man. We were extremely blessed that God provided us with wonderful weather to help us soak in all that Dún Aonghasa had to offer!

Antonio casually hanging over the cliffs

P.S. Make sure to army crawl out to the edge of the cliff if you dare to view the beautiful drop that will be directly beneath you! 

Adrienne enjoying the beautiful view (Shhh…don’t tell her mom she did this!)

Glendalough

Are you looking for a gorgeous place to explore that is full of history and beauty? If so, we have the perfect place for you…Glendalough in County Wicklow!

Glendalough, County Wicklow

Glendalough is an ancient monastery that looks as if it is right out of a fantasy story! It is the home of the twin lakes and was originally part of the land that was sought after by St. Kevin. However, before St. Kevin the land was a home to the pagans. It is said that St. Kevin drove out all of the pagans in the area and then claimed the land as his own. He did this because he was a monk who then turned into a hermit. Many myths are said about him and the most interesting one is that he would stand in the freezing water with his arms stretched out until birds would make nests in his hands. Despite the myths, one thing we do know about him is that he gained a huge following of people. He was known to be extremely wise and very strong within the faith. So, it is a no brainer how he gained his following. With this following he was able to construct himself a stone home (one of the few stone roofs still standing) and build a tower for the monks. The round tower was one meter thick and its roof was made from fallen stones that came from the mountain. They also formed a graveyard that is still used to this day by locals. What is very interesting though is that this place was home to the Pattern Day. This was an extremely large fair that was held in Glendalough where both the monks and travelers would come and set up shops and have times of worship. Even though St. Kevin set out as a hermit and wanted to be alone, he was the founder of one of the most beautiful spots in Ireland.

Stepping into the ruined holy ground of the Glendalough monastery, we could not help but speak in whispered, hushed tones paying tribute to the reverence that the place deserved. Dating back to St. Kevin in the 6^th century, the community left traces and hints of their early monastic settlement. St. Kevin originally set out to be a hermit, taking residence in the caves by the upper lake in Glendalough. However, as anchoritic monks across Ireland and Christendom began to become common experiences, people flocked to them as spiritual advisors and leaders. As St. Kevin began to have a community build up around him the Glendalough community was formed. However, the stone buildings were not established until the 10^th through the 12^th century and those are the buildings that we see today.

View of the monastic city from the top of a mountain

As we can attest, you would be hard-pressed to find a scholar here that would downplay the importance of the early monastic settlements. These settlements were hugely influential in the development of Ireland into the country that it is today. As people began to settle into the community of subsistence farming and commune-lifestyles, villages began to form. These villages would develop into towns and those towns into cities until Ireland began to see cities rise. Built on the foundation of these early monasteries, Ireland is flooded with ruined buildings that remind its citizens of its humble beginnings. The Irish are a people who are immensely proud of their land and history. Most Irishmen and Irishwomen know a decent amount about their town and development. While monasteries are not still in use today, the Irish have a connection to their history that more upwardly mobile countries do not have. Many families have been living where they are for most of their life and plan to live out the remainder of it in that land. History is not just the story of who they were; the history of Ireland is part of the story of who they are. Sites like the Glendalough monastery help scholars and tourists alike answer the question, who are the Irish? 

Glendalough, history and all, was a sight to be seen! Can you imagine living there? It is by far one of the most beautiful places we have seen. Before the tour we were able to learn a little bit about the community of this site inside the tourist building. Glendalough was a very small place, but was home to many monks. It was neat to think about all of the monks coming together for one purpose: to worship the Lord. The living conditions were probably not great and they had only the minimum, yet they still worshiped. This was a challenging thought for us. Many of us questioned whether we could give up everything and live a life of solitude and live our days in constant prayer. Although we would have liked to admit that we would in a heartbeat, it would definitely be difficult. Another thing that we thought about was that even in their minimalistic living, God never failed to provide for them. In the same sense, we should not worry because even in hard times our God always provides!

Looking at the location of this site it was evident that especially back in the day, it was in the middle of nowhere. Without much transportation it was extremely difficult to get anywhere; this isolated them from the rest of the world. This was most likely done intentionally. It allowed them to focus more on God and less about worldly things. Being surrounded by mountains must have been a reminder of God’s power and how magnificent He is! Thinking about our semester in Ireland so far we can relate. The scenery that we are soaking in turns our minds to how great of a God we serve and how blessed we are to be living in God’s wonderful creation!

To end, Glendalough was absolutely stunning and we hope that you can make a trip there sometime in the future!

From left to right: Adrienne, Giovanna, Jessica, Antonio